Waterway to enjoy London

1:19pm Friday 25th January 2008

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They were once busy industrial arteries, but these days canals offer a more sedate means of getting around.

With walking, cycling and boating opportunities, they provide a relaxing route for exploring the capital without the need for crowded tubes or buses, and offer an escape from the bustle of the city's streets.

The triangular basin of Little Venice, where the Grand Union Canal meets Regent's Canal, is the perfect place to begin a journey. Regent's Canal was commissioned in 1812 by the Prince Regent (later King George IV), and the first stretch opened in 1816. It was used for transporting goods up until the 1960s.

But today the canal has a new role as a leisure destination. The London Waterbus Company is one of the services operating boat trips from Little Venice, its converted barges taking passengers on a 50-minute journey to Camden Lock.

If you have time before your boat departs, why not stop for a coffee or a bite to eat in Little Venice and admire the view, which includes handsome white stucco houses. There's a café in a converted barge and a nearby waterside pub.

These days, many people call the canal home, and once your boat has departed, you can't help but notice the pretty, converted barges moored along the canal, with vibrant names and colours. Heading north east, the canal runs parallel to the attractive Maida Avenue and the recently refurbished Rembrandt Gardens, before passing through Maida Hill Tunnel. You'll also see Regency villas (and their well-tended gardens), designed by 19th century architect John Nash - yet curiously not built until the late 20th century, while there are also glimpses of London Central Mosque.

The canal follows the perimeter of Regent's Park, and at times you'll almost believe you are in the countryside. This green scene is enhanced by the wildlife, which includes birds such as coots, moorhens, swans and grebes.

The canal passes beneath Macclesfield Bridge, which gained its nickname Blow Up Bridge in 1874 when a barge carrying gunpowder blew up while passing underneath it. Only the supporting columns survive from the original crossing.

The barge continues on its slow course - it is overtaken by joggers and cyclists on the towpath - before stopping at London Zoo (combined boat-zoo tickets are available). From the boat you get a good view of some of the zoo's aviaries on one side of the canal, and catch glimpses of prowling animals in the enclosures on the other bank.

Past the zoo, you reach the distinctive landmark of the Feng Shang floating Chinese restaurant, the cue to turn 90 degrees and head north under Prince Albert Road and on towards Camden.

The journey ends when the barge moors at Camden Lock, where you disembark in the heart of the busy, bustling market - a bit like stepping into another world after the tranquillity of the canal. There are plenty of opportunities to shop and eat food from around the world. Then you could stay on into the evening and sample Camden's pubs, clubs and bars, or head back on the boat for a bit more relaxation.

FURTHER INFORMATION:
The London Waterbus Company runs services from Little Venice to Camden Lock throughout the year. Between November and March it operates Saturdays and Sundays, three times in each direction. From April to September there are eight daily services in each direction, while in October, services run Thursday to Sunday.

No booking is necessary - just turn up and pay on board. One-way fares are: adult £6, child/senior £4.30. Return: adult £8.40, child/senior £5.40. You can also buy a combined ticket for the boat and zoo (there's even a private zoo entrance to avoid the queues at the main gate). A one-way journey, including admission price, is: adult £16.50, child £13.50, senior £15.50.

For further timetable and fare information, visit the website www.londonwaterbus.com

You can also learn more about rivers and canals in London and the rest of the country at www.waterscape.com