Elizabeth Pears visits the largest of the Canary Islands and finds relaxation and pampering, far from the madding crowd.

I was prepared for the Tenerife I thought I knew: just another Canary Island, albeit the biggest, cashing in on the warm breezes that sweep in from the African coast.

I foolishly expected an identikit tourist paradise, its sand shores and bar trimmed strips packed with hordes of holidaymakers trying to cram a year's sunshine into a one week package deal. I imagined English cafés and Irish pubs.

But what I didn't know about Tenerife is that it is an island of contrasts and one of choice.

I wasn't completely wrong about the island's underbelly, but beyond the buzzing nightlife of resort towns like Playa de las Americas is the other Tenerife: the sophisticated and luxurious older sister. This Tenerife, in the north, is home to authentic Spanish towns like Puerto de la Cruz and is just an hour's ride from the main airport. I spent three nights in the old colonial town decorated with gorgeous white villas gently tucked into crevices of the island's volcanic cliffs. Set on the coast, the former fishing village gives you amazing views of the Atlantic Ocean on one side, or you can turn your head to enjoy the snow-topped peak of Mount Teide, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on the other.

North Tenerife is as plush as the south is dry and dusty. The area is home to many banana plantations, and green leaves and palm trees are plentiful. And though it's the south where thermometers are guaranteed to hit record heights, the milder climate in Puerto de la Cruz means you can enjoy the weather and explore the variety of shops in town, or the black volcanic sand beaches, without fear of collapse or dehydration.

I stayed at the 5-star Hotel Botanico - also home to the Oriental Spa Garden, a magnificently modern spa with traditional Turkish sauna and steam rooms as well as novelties like a lavender-scented (among many other divine perfumes) aromatherapy room and an ice temple. The spa facilities are complimentary for hotel guests and you can drift in and out at your leisure.

The hotel itself is a little dated but the overall effect is classic glamour from the live entertainment in the hotel lounge to the leather seats of the smokers' room-cum-library-cum-billiards room. And the views from your balcony will more than compensate for any gripes you may have towards Eighties decor.

While it won't take Hercule Poirot, or whatever his Spanish equivalent, to work out that a large portion of the clientèle are soon eligible for, or already in receipt of, their Freedom Passes, the spectacular six acres of tropical gardens that surround the hotel will easily seduce green-fingered enthusiasts of any age. It also means that the hotel can maintain an ambience of total tranquility, making it a perfect haven for stressed-out city types, or love's young dream, to get away from it all, recharge ones batteries, and bask in luxury.

The hotel has grabbed every opportunity to keep up with the demands of 21st century lifestyle trends for those who can afford it. Earlier this year, Hotel Botanico launched its Wellness Essence programme, which promises to help clients shed the pounds and revitalise their bodies through specially prepared food, diet and spa treatments. A specially trained dietician will work closely to create a tailor-made menu - prepared by a top chef who specialises in low fat, but gourmet cooking. If you want to feel like an A-list star then this is the programme for you.

Intrigued by talks of dietetics, I decided to indulge myself. The chef at Hotel Botanico's newly-opened Al Fresco restaurant assured me that simply by cooking with no fat, or salt and using just herbs and spices to bring out the true flavour of the food he could prepare me a three-course meal of under 500 calories. As I waited for the miracle to happen, the waiter brought out an extensive drinks menu, but instead of an A-Z of the best wines Spain had to offer, it was an über-trendy water list to help limit the calories and not "upset the balance of the food". Separated from the kitchen by glass, the diners could watch the chef at work making food preparation look less like home economics and more like biochemistry.

I think it's fair to say I was a little sceptical, but the results were worthy of at least one cry of Eureka. Sitting down to a three-course dinner is the perfect complement to any day in my book. But sitting down to a three course dinner that boasted less than 500 calories and featured a decent portion of chicken and even some soft cheese, I must have been in heaven surely? One thing is for sure, you'll never look at a croissant the same way again.

Which I did, the very next day, as I enjoyed the hotel's fantastic breakfast buffet, which can be eaten indoors or outside in the grounds. And that's the nice thing about Tenerife, whatever you want to do, the choice is there and it's all yours.

GETTING THERE:
Return flights from London Heathrow or Gatwick with Iberia from £175, all inclusive.
www.iberia.com

ACCOMMODATION:
Hotel Botanico has three-night packages including accommodation and spa treatments, from around £350.
www.hotelbotanico.com

TOURIST INFORMATION:
Spanish Tourist Office
PO Box 4009
London W1A 6NB
Tel: 020 7486 8077 (24 Hour information and brochure request line: 08459 400 180)
E-mail: info.londres@tourspain.es
www.spain.info/uk

www.turismodecanarias.com

NEARBY PLACES OF INTEREST:
Loro Parque: Set among tropical palm trees and exotic vegetation, with some stunning Thai architecture, Loro Parque is home to a wide range of animals, including the world's largest collection of parrots with 350 different species present. There are also dolphins, sea lions, gorillas, chimpanzees, penguins and an aquarium.
www.loroparque.com

Parque Nacional El Teide: At 3,718 metres (12,198ft), the colossal volcano Mount Teide is the highest peak on Spanish soil. The 73 square mile national park, which hugs its slopes, is home to unique plants and animals, including a wide variety of reptiles, insects and birds of prey, which thrive in this stunning volcanic landscape.
whc.unesco.org