The high life

With its backdrop of snow-capped volcanoes, its location on the equator and its high altitude setting, Quito is in a unique and enviable position.

So much so that even before your plane has touched down on the runway, you may well get the idea it’s a special place.

Quito stretches for tens of kilometres along a narrow north-south valley, almost 3,000 metres up in the Andes, where the air is rarefied and where you are closer to the sun. This is life on the line - zero latitude, that is.

On ground level Ecuador's capital, a city of two million or so, is the sum of many intriguing parts. On any given day, beneath an almost constant 12-hour arc of the sun, you can take a breathless journey through streets old and new until you have acclimatised to the altitude, and have been thoroughly mesmerised by the beauty of the city and the life it holds.

Quito was the first city to be granted UNESCO World Heritage status, some 30 years ago, and heritage has taken on recently-renewed importance. At the southern end of the city centre is the old town, or El Centro Histórico, with its blend of Baroque and neoclassical architecture.

This is the largest historic centre in the Americas, yet for many years the old town was, in parts, a den of thieves, drug addicts and pickpockets. In the past decade, however, a truly amazing transformation has taken place. Thanks to an investment of more than US$200 million the old town has been cleaned up, and the buildings have been restored to their former glory, while there's also now a highly visible security presence.

The old town, with its narrow, hilly streets, is a fairly compact area. However, with 40 chapels and churches, 16 convents and monasteries, 17 plazas, 12 museums and much more besides, one day here will never be enough.

Old Quito’s new coat of paint reflects the bright equatorial light beautifully, and nowhere is this more so than in the main plazas, which include Plaza San Francisco, Plaza de la Independencia (Plaza Grande) and Plaza Santo Domingo. Especially around lunchtime, these are ideal spots to stop a while and watch Quiteños go about their business, mildly hassled by the shoeshine boys who ply their trade among the crowds.

The City Museum makes sense of the story of Quito, from its Pre-Incan origins as a trading post through to the 19th century when it became capital of an independent Ecuador. Despite its relative closeness to the rest of the empire, the Incas had only limited time here - barely more than a half century. Quito really came into its own with the arrival in the 16th century of the Spanish, who built much of the city's finest architecture.

Stunning religious buildings from colonial times include the Santo Domingo Church, began in 1581, while the gold leaf (it is said several tonnes were used) interior of La Compañía Church should not be missed. At the 17th century Carmen Alto Convent, hidden nuns sell communion wine and sweets through a wooden turnstile.

When people talk about Quito undergoing a renaissance to rival any city in the world, this isn't an exaggeration. And with more investment likely, El Centro Histórico will only benefit further.

Moving across town is easier said than done. Traffic congestion can be hideous and there are some interesting driving styles on display, although any near miss or minor prang seems more likely to end with a smile than full-on road rage. Hawkers work the jams, selling mandarins, pork scratchings, phone cards, newspapers and drinks. Occasionally you'll see kids juggling fruit in front of waiting cars, hoping to earn a buck or two.

On the other side of Parque La Alameda is the new town, where the narrow streets widen, functional office blocks, hotels and shopping malls replace the historic buildings, and rush hour is slightly more bearable.

One of the highlights of the new town is the cosmopolitan La Mariscal area, which as well as offering opportunities for shopping and visiting galleries and museums is also one of Quito's main nightlife centres. There are all kinds of bars and restaurants in which to start the night, and later you can salsa dance into the early hours at one of the many salsotecas, where the vibe is friendly and relaxed.

Although Quito is not the cheapest place to get to, once you’re there the costs are reasonable. Ecuador uses the US dollar as its currency, and prices are less volatile than elsewhere in Latin America. Quito remains a budget travel destination, but even if you want to live a little, you can do so in style for considerably less than in the UK. And there are plenty of opportunities, with new boutique hotels opening across town, along with five-star options, and smart restaurants.

Eating out in Quito is both a joy and a journey of discovery. You may hear about New Andean cuisine, where traditional South American flavours have fused with influences from the rest of the world, yet often the simple dishes are the most satisfying. Don’t miss the timeless locro de papa, a hearty potato soup, and look out too for family-run food stalls and restaurants, where you can pick up humitas (corn husks filled with a mixture of ground corn, onions and eggs, steam-cooked) and empanadas.

One drink to try is coca tea, which can help with the symptoms of altitude - but don't try to take any back through customs as a souvenir.

At the neoclassical, 19th century Teatro Sucre - a flagship of the city's burgeoning and multifaceted arts scene - you can dine at Theatrum restaurant, while serenaded by an opera singer. Up on the valley sides, two unforgettable dining options include Hacienda Rumiloma, with views to the east across the city, while diners at Pim's, housed over in the magnificent glass building of Itchimbía Cultural Centre, get to look the other way.

Due to the gravitational forces at the equator you weigh a kilo less in Quito than in the UK - but that's no excuse to overindulge.

If you want one truly memorable dining experience, then it has to be guinea pig (cuy). It’s a fatty cross between rabbit and chicken (but draw your own conclusions), and it’s often roast with plenty of garlic. The sight of these rodents, stripped of their fur and grilled whole on spits, is enough to make even the most hardened carnivore pause for thought.

There are more alluring sights in Quito, perhaps none finer than from the top of the volcano Pichincha, which looms over the western side the city. In 1822, the Battle of Pichincha took place on its slopes. It was the final act in the push for independence from Spain, and signalled the birth of the short-lived republic of Gran Colombia, which roughly covered modern day Ecuador, Colombia, Panama and Venezuela.

More recently, in 1999, the peace of a clear blue morning was shattered when Pichincha blew its top, sending a mushroom cloud high up into the atmosphere and a layer of ash down over the city.

You can take the TelefériQo cable car up the mountain to 4,000 metres, where the air is even thinner - but that's not all that will take your breath away. On a clear day, with the city spread out more than a kilometre below, and a host of volcanoes including Cotopaxi, Antisana, Iliniza, Cotacachi and Cayambe stretching into the distance, there can be few finer views on earth.

Each volcano has its story. Cayambe, for instance, has the only permanent snow on the equator, while the highest point on the line is found on its slopes.

You don’t have to go far from Quito before you get to zero degrees. Twenty kilometres north of the city is Mitad del Mundo, the “middle of the world”, a museum complex straddling the equator line. There are in fact two lines here. One shows the equator that was discovered in the 18th century, and is also marked by a large monolith.

Then there’s the line, 200 metres away, that was calculated by modern GPS. Here you’ll be treated to a range of experiments – for example balancing an egg on the head of a nail, draining a sink full of water to demonstrate the Coriolis effect, and some gravity-assisted tests of strength. Trying to balance while walking heel-to-toe along the line, eyes closed, is a tough challenge indeed.

Ecuador is roughly the size of the UK, which means travelling between the Andes, Amazon Basin and coast takes a matter of hours. Thanks to an improving road network you can easily get from Quito to some other special places.

East of Quito, 3,800 metres up among the clouds and (occasional) condors, is Termas de Papallacta, one of Ecuador’s growing number of spa resorts. Papallacta’s environmentally-friendly credentials include best practices developed with the Rainforest Alliance, and it even has its own water treatment plant.

Several different source springs bring water of varying temperature straight out of the Andes and into the spa’s hot pools, allowing you to take what is perhaps your highest-altitude swim in some comfort. The air can get chilly up here. It's a relaxing place to spend a couple of days, and there’s a wide range of treatments available, including Andean mud wrap, Turkish bath, pressurised thermal jet and a long list of massages.

Hit the Panamerican Highway south from Quito and within a couple of hours you’ll be up on the cold, misty moorland around Cotopaxi. The snowcapped and conical peak, almost six kilometres in height, is one of the world's great volcanoes, and is still active.

Heading in the opposite direction, no trip north from Quito is complete without a visit to Otavalo, a town famous for its large markets. Saturday is the day to go, when a lively animal market takes place just outside town early in the morning.

In the food market in the centre of town meanwhile, you can see every conceivable part of a pig on sale, as well as fruit and vegetables of sizes and varieties you've possibly never seen before. Ecuador is one of the most biodiverse countries on earth, so prepare to try the likes of the guanabana, babaco, guayaba, naranjilla, tamarillo and chirimoya. You might never look an apple in the eye again.

Otavalo’s craft market sells all manner of scarves, ponchos, belts, jewellery, hats, ornaments, panpipes and so on. It's a touristy but fun place to buy souvenirs, and haggling is expected. Shop around for the best prices, as you'll find similar items on many stalls.

Around Otavalo there are historic haciendas you can visit for a meal, or to stay overnight. They include the stunning Hacienda Pinsaqui and Hacienda Cusin, where you can relax and step back in time, yet still be back in the capital within a couple of hours.

For many years, its southern neighbour Peru had all the visitors, while Colombia to the north received the bad press. Ecuador was all too often left off the radar. But now all that's changing, and no more so than in Quito.

With its beguiling mix of history, culture, altitude and latitude, it is one of the most enchantingly beautiful cities on earth.

TOURIST INFORMATION:
Quito Visitors Bureau
Main office (old town): Corporación Metropolitana de Quito, Palacio Municipal, Plaza Grande (Plaza de la Independencia). Tel: (+593 2) 2281 904.
There is also an office at the airport.
www.quito.com.ec

GETTING THERE:
Airlines flying from London to Quito include American Airlines (via Miami), Iberia (via Madrid) and KLM (via Amsterdam). Expect to pay from about £650 rtn, including taxes and fees. However, remember to keep US$40.80 back to pay the departure tax when leaving Quito, which isn’t included in your ticket price.

Mariscal Sucre International Airport is in Quito's northern suburbs, and a taxi downtown is a good idea when you first arrive. Expect to pay about US$5 to the centre. A new airport is due to open in 2010.

ACCOMMODATION:
Hilton Colon (5-star, new town)
www.quito.hilton.com
Rooms from US$150

Hotel Patio Andaluz (4-star, old town)
www.hotelpatioandaluz.com
Rooms from US$150

Hotel El Relicario del Carmen (boutique hotel, old town)
www.hotelrelicariodelcarmen.com
Rooms from US$70

Magic Bean (budget, new town)
www.magicbeanquito.com
Dormitory beds from US$10 per night.

TOURS:
A number of free guided tours of Quito are available. Visit the Quito Visitors Bureau website for further details. Other options are available from US$5.

Tour operators offering a range of journeys from Quito to destinations such as Otavalo, Cotopaxi, Papallacta and beyond include:
Andean Travel Company: www.andeantc.com
Klein Tours: www.kleintours.com

SPANISH SCHOOLS:
Quito is one of the most popular places in Latin America to learn Spanish, and there's a good reason for that. It is said the language is spoken slowly and clearly here, so is easier to understand than in many places.

It's also common for those starting long journeys through South America to stay here a few weeks or months to learn the language. Quito has many schools, but only a select group have accreditation from the country’s education ministry and must follow certain requirements and responsibilities. These schools are members of AECEE (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Centros de Enseñanza del Español).

The schools offer you the chance to learn either in a small group or one-to-one, and you will have a library of books, CDs and videos at your disposal, while some schools also have language laboratories. Schools also tend to have internet access and there are usually notice boards with activities you can sign up to.

The association also has contacts with travel firms to arrange trips from Quito, while further language immersion through home stays and cultural programmes can help students to learn more effectively. Each school is distinctive - one even has a bar and dance floor in its basement.

One-to-one lessons tend to cost from about US$7 per hour, less for group lessons, and you work towards a DELE (Diploma de Español como Lengua Extranjera).

Even if you only have time to study for a day or two, learning a little about the language and culture is a great opportunity to get under the skin of this fascinating country.