Ragusa, in Sicily, offers a Mediterranean holiday to savour, writes Nick Elvin.

To the late 17th century residents of Ragusa, the earthquake of 1693 was a disaster of horrific proportions. But gazing across to Ibla, the old part of the city, today's visitor can only witness the legacy of that catastrophic event.

Ibla is a time capsule; a settlement destroyed by tremors, which was completely and stunningly rebuilt in the Baroque style of the time. In recent years those who hand out UNESCO World Heritage laurels had little choice other than to put Ragusa on their list.

Sicily has always been a geologically volatile place, and some of its most famous sites are volcanic superstars – Etna, Stromboli, for instance. But the province to which Ragusa gives its name is not somewhere on the lips of most visitors to this triangular island – an island which the boot of Italy has kicked just far enough into the Mediterranean to make it almost another country.

Ibla deserves at least a half-day’s exploration. Among the impressive sights are the noblemen’s houses, built to accommodate the new middle class that emerged in the 18th century. Casa Appiano, for example, is a museum house that’s full of old furniture, books, ornaments and a musty aroma. It dates from about 1700, when the current owner’s ancestors fled Trento, having got into a spot of trouble in the northern Italian town. You can arrange visits through the tourist office.

In recent years other such houses have been restored and then opened as restaurants, art galleries or hotels. The 5-star Antica Badia, for instance, took eight years to renovate and get all the pigeons out.

Ragusa city is home to about 70,000 inhabitants (humans, not pigeons), but it has the feel of a bigger place. Although you could lose yourself in Ibla, with its bars and restaurants, boutiques and galleries, not to mention the landmark domed Cathedral of San Giorgio, don’t rule out the journey across the stunning Valle dei Ponti, a ravine that separates Ibla from the newer part of town. You won’t forget the view of the bridges in a hurry.

But if you’re in search of a slice of rural life – and Ragusa is full of rustic charm - a good way to get around is on a mountain bike tour. One of the best routes follows a disused railway line that was built in the 1920s to transport oil and tar from the local petroleum industry to the coast. The line passes through pine forests, which were planted during fascist times, and dustier, drier agricultural land. There’s also a series of tunnels to negotiate, including one that runs for more than 200 metres.

The trained nose can pick out a thousand scents from the herbs that grow in the undulating countryside alongside wild flowers and prickly pear cacti.

Cycle into the Calaforno forest reserve and you’ll find a necropolis, dating from 3,500BC and containing 36 chambers, where you can climb underground with a torch and pretend you're Indiana Jones.

The countryside is full of surprises. Eremo della Giubiliana is one of many independent hotels dotted around rural Ragusa. This former fortress, now a five-star stay, was often visited by the Knights of the Order of San Giovanni, who were stationed on nearby Malta in the 16th century. These days the hotel even has its own airstrip.

The village of Giarratana was also rebuilt after the earthquake. It now contains an open-air museum, which is a reconstruction of life from the early 19th century onwards. Some smaller houses on show used to be home to as many as 12 people, and still contain many original items such as ploughs, pots and pans, bread makers and baby walkers.

Chiaramonte Gulfi is a town with historic streets, cafés, pleasant public gardens and dramatic views over the coastal plain. One of its attractions is Museo dell’Olio, a museum devoted to the harvest and production process of olive oil throughout the years. The local product is rather good. In fact, research is being carried out into the low rate of stomach cancer in this area – an area where olive oil consumption is high.

From Chiaramonte Gulfi you can clearly see the Med, and if you would like to be beside the seaside, there are some ideal spots. Marina di Ragusa is a resort that’s growing in a not unpleasant way. This fishing village boasts beaches with excellent quality sand and shallow water, a promenade, and a good selection of shops, restaurants and bars. One place to check out on a warm day is Caffe delle Rose, in the main square, which serves up delicious, fresh, local ice cream.

Whereas in the 16th century knights visited Ragusa, 20th century crusaders also came this way. The Allies landed on this coast in 1943 to begin the invasion of Italy and the liberation of Europe. There’s a beach at Marina di Ragusa that's now known as American Beach, where some of the landings took place. Just along the coast is Punta Secca, another charming fishing village with a good beach and delicious ices.

But ice cream is not the only taste to relish in Ragusa. In a world where food is shipped thousands of miles, Ragusa keeps it local. If you want rich cheeses, or cholesterol busting olives and sundried tomatoes, the choice is yours.

There's a wealth of producers based throughout the region, and specialities include pistachio liqueur, ricotta, sardines, squid, ham, oregano, carob, basil, aubergine, focaccia, lemons, honey and even donkey meat salami. The list goes on, and the quality of the food might make you consider turning your back on processed food.

In fact, spend a little time in Ragusa and you may decide to turn your back on other Mediterranean destinations. There’s unlimited rural charm, delicious local produce, and a main town that’s full of history and atmosphere, yet chic and modern. In terms of tourism, this place hasn't been ruined, and although many new places have opened in the region, style and substance, rather than pile 'em high and sell 'em cheap is how things are done.

A journey through Ragusa province will appeal to all your senses.

TOURIST INFORMATION:
Ragusa city (Citta di Ragusa): www.comune.ragusa.it
Italian Government Tourist Board: www.enit.it

GETTING THERE:
Several airlines fly from London to Catania, including British Airways and Air Malta (direct), while connecting services include Alitalia, Lufthansa and Brussels Airlines. Expect to pay from about £120 return. Ask for a window seat and you could enjoy views of Stromboli, Vulcano and Etna.
Catania airport is about 1hr 45 minutes away from Ragusa by road. Car rental options at the airport include Avis and Europcar.

ACCOMMODATION:
B&Bs in Ragusa city include L'Orto sul Tetto in Ibla, where a double room costs from €70 per night.
www.lortosultetto.it

The four-star Best Western Hotel Mediterraneo Palace, located by the Valle dei Ponti in Ragusa, has rooms from €65 per night.
www.mediterraneopalace.it

The five-star Eremo della Giubiliana, located just to the south west of Ragusa city, has rooms from around €200 per night.
www.eremodellagiubiliana.it

TOURS:
Hyblabike offers excellent bike tours led by local guides, for all abilities.
www.hyblabike.com

ESO Tourism Service offers Land Rover excursions through the countryside.
www.esotourismservice.com