"Wine is the milk of the gods, milk the drink of the babies, tea the drink of women, and water the drink of beasts."

John Stuart Blackie

I don't know about you but I’m fed up with the winter so let's take an early look at a grape that’s just perfect for the spring, sauvignon blanc.

It’s the classic grape of Sancerre in France where it makes dry and often pungent white wines with deep flavours. But in recent years its spiritual home may have shifted to the New World and Marlborough in particular.

Quite what the Kiwis did with the grape I still don't know but they turned a pungent classic into a tropical fruit-driven goddess of a wine with aromas bursting out of the bottle.

Yes, you may have guessed it but I love sauvignon blanc, so you can imagine my delight nearly a quarter of a century ago when I first discovered the delightful whites of Marlborough for myself.

Sauvignon blanc is one of those chameleon wines in that it’s the perfect aperitif wine before a big Christmas lunch, but also a cracking partner to shellfish at any time of the year, yet no hot summer's day or barbecue à la napalm is complete without this crisp, refreshing white. Yeah, I know I've said it, but I love sauvignon blanc, folks.

Now I know you’re going to be sceptical of this next bit and some of you will think it’s just him, he’s a wine snob, but I'm telling you this for your own good so listen carefully!

Trade up when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc. There's plenty on the market for around a fiver but as I don't drive a Lada, wear tank tops or cling to the belief that U2’s last album was a classic, I don't drink rubbish either.

Cheap sauvignon is like alcoholic water with a faint smell of urine, so aim high folks and the really great news is that there’s plenty to aim at.

For the classic and sometimes austere style aim for Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, for tropical fruits go down under and for something in between and a bit lemony as well, try the Fumé Blancs of California.

Yes, folks the world is your oyster if classy Sauvignon is your game but there's another rule to follow with this grape. As well as trading up, make sure you chill it down because unlike Chardonnay, which just sort of fattens up at room temperature, Sauvignon resembles a grumpy old man with warm gooseberry breath at any temperature higher than a polar bear's butt cheeks, so put ten bob in the meter and chill it down guys.

I mentioned the shellfish and barbecues earlier, but I forgot to say that one of its best partnerships is with a summer salad with grilled chicken or smoked salmon and yes, I know its still freezing outside but admit it, just for one second, it really did feel like summer didn't it! Pip pip.

Clark Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

Flowery, with a hint of peppers on the nose, with tropical fruits and a hint of chalk on the palate. Overall, a really really classy sauvignon

Forrest Wines, £15.00

East London and West Essex Guardian Series:

Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc

Simon the winemaker at Astrolabe is something of a magician with sauvignon and his trick here is to marry New Zealand with Pouilly Fumé and the result is to die for. I particularly love the hint of lime on the finish. Definitely a winner with a crab meat salad.

Waitrose, £19.99

"Wine is the milk of the gods, milk the drink of the babies, tea the drink of women, and water the drink of beasts."

John Stuart Blackie